Low lighting, good listening, and some drinks. A great escape from the busy cities in Japan to enjoy something special.
How did they get 2 story speakers in here?
The Jazz Kissa (& Lion)
The Deets
Let's talk about listening cafés. Ongaku kissa (music cafés ) started opening in the 1920's as way for people to access to Western music because vinyls were expensive and hard to acquire. After WWII, the amount of kissa increased and the focus was jazz. Hitting a peak in the 60's & 70's, at one point in the 70's there were over 600 jazz kissa in Japan. This wave of kissa brought the aesthetic that you can still find today; lowlighting, rules against talking, selling alcohol... basically VIBES. Amazingly there are still about 15-20 kissa from this era left. If you can find one, I highly recommend a visit.
Thoughts
What makes a kissa different than any restaurant or café? When asked this questions I feel like the best way explain it is to liken them to diners. There's a homey, usually anachronistic feel to them. It's somewhere people are comfortable becoming "regulars" and while they're might be upscale one with sophisticated menus ones most have a pretty informal feel and serve simple comforts.
Experiences
Want to know what the ongaku kissa was like in the 20's? The original Lion opened in Shibuya in 1929. Unlike most of remaining kissa, Lion focuses on classical music instead of jazz. In the 1950's, large wooden custom speakers are two stories high and were built so that wherever a patron sat they could experience quality sounds. The years of experience, the landmark status speakers, and their no talking policy have made Lion an icon. They open from 1 - 8 pm most days and serve a variety of soft drinks (coffee, melon soda, lemon squash, etc.). Lion has a strict no talking & no pictures policy one you're inside.
This woman-owned Jazz kissa has been around since 1973. Located in a small dark building, the space has a bar that seats 5-7 with one or two small tables.
A true jazz otaku, the owner plays from their extensive collection, while signed photos and records line the walls.
Wishlist
Jazz Blues Soul Bar (JBS), Shibuya
Dug, Shinjuku (1961)
PaperMoon, Toshima (1982)
Lady Jane, Daisawa (1975)
Record Bars
The Deets
More on the nightlife side of things, record bars make up a small amount of bars throughout Tokyo. Influenced by the old school kissa, these new bars have low lighting, rows and rows of records, and one careful connoisseur putting it all together while you drink into the early AM.
Thoughts
Over the years I have seen a few of these open in NYC but most have pricey menus and hard to secure reservations. I feel like the trend is picking up and hope to see more with a casual vibe.
Experiences
This is one of my favorite bars in Tokyo. Open from 7pm-2am every night. The owner, bartender, DJ serves are wide-variety of cocktails along with a custom playlist of funk and soul tracks but from his extensive record collection.
Most of the tunes are vintage but the owner will slip in a modern track every now and then.
There is a huge rum selection and the drink menu is several pages. The bar is one room on the second floor of a building with a casual, living room style seating area as well as a bar with about 8 seats. Like many little bars in Tokyo, there is a cover charge. Cash only. The owner has a blog HERE.
Trouble Peach, Setagaya City,
This dark, second floor dive bar plays rock music from the 60s-90's. On busy nights there is a tiny pocket bar on the bottom floor with that will fit 3-4. The place has an old school punk feel, like in NYC
Grandfather’s, Shibuya
A basement dive bar with a classy touch. Zach went here based on a recommendation from a friend and he enjoyed quite well.
Even though he was there too early, he got to enjoy an empty record bar to him self. Its close to Drunkards Alley and a perfect pairing for the night.
The cocktails menu was huge. These drink were not only well crafted but they were the perfect size and very cheap. "The best Manhattan is in Shibuya" - Z