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Writer's pictureZak Goldstein

Camino Del Norte (Part 4): Ziortza-Bolibar to Guernica

Updated: Dec 19, 2023

Many cute towns to explore as make our way to the famous Guernica, know for the WW2 bombing and Picasso mural. Resting the the towns Munitiba and Mendata broke up the day nicely. Also, our last stop on the proper Camino before we head north to make our own trail to Bilbao.


A cross walk overlooking a Basque town with a woman looking at a mural

DINK Details

Difficulty: Medium​

Start: Ziortza-Bolibar

End: Guernica

Time¹: 8 hours

Distance: 11.88 mi

Elv. Gain: 1,867 ft

Towns²: 3

Food Prep: Low

Add Ons:

See "The Guernica" mural

1. How long we took to walk it with breaks and all

2. Towns are places with food and restroom


Hmmm Basque pirate music is awesome.... is that a parrot?


 

The Start - Ziortza-Bolibar

Monument to Simon Bolibar

It was so quite outside. We got a chance to look around Ziortza-Bolibar with the morning light. A monument to Simon Bolibar (Bolivar) was in the center (makes sense from the town name).


Breakfast on the go is packaged ham cubes, some snack and coffee from the vending machine and lots of water. There will be many stops and pinchos today so we want to save room.


Yesterday left us a little shook from our experience but spirits are high since today is short with many stops. We head to the hill next to town to start our climb to our first stop. a monastery.


The Walk

Leaving Ziortza-Bolibar- 8:30AM

The trail to the Zenarruzako Komentua monastery is old and looks to have a long history. We pass some goats as we say goodbye to our town.


Two baby goats on a hill above town

According to Google reviews, there is sometimes and monk that gives hugs that this reviewer did not appreciate. I was excited for Neas to find this out without warning.



Sadly, there was no one here for the holidays. We were alone with the remains of Christmasy things, a closed Camino souvenir shop (sad) and many many cats.


Cat jumping down from door
A guarded door
Cat in the wall
Cat in the wall

To Gerrikaitz

A line of horses with 2 tires in front of them

This section was awesome! It had dogs, cows on farms, boardwalks in the woods, and a cute town where everyone had amazing gardens!


From the monastery, we followed the road a bit further until we hit a dead end at a farm. All of a sudden, we were ambushed by dogs who demand attention. I must give them attention too.



After we said goodbye, the trail takes us behind the farm house (feels weird but that's the Camino for ya) and are met with a fast decent into the woods. Only a few feet in, we see a boardwalk. Flat ground with stairs! It took us all the way down from the mountain!! Following the pattern of Camino, it dropped us off in the someone's backyard.



This little community we entered was so cute with very nice houses and a beautiful garden in each.



Sip and Bite

We arrived in Gerrikaitz and looked for our first pincho and drink stop. At the main intersection and quite cafe looks open, Sindikatu Jatetxea.


We settled in with a wine, egg tortas, and tuna pinchos. After a few minutes we notice Basque pirate music playing. It was a jam. After a few more minutes, we noticed there was a parrot greeted everyone. Sure, why not. If we weren't on the clock, we would stay longer.


To Mendata

Our next stop was 2 hours away. The trail showed us some cows snuggling, empty remote houses and hot peppers growing everywhere. We never got to try them but were curious.



Sip and Bite

Time for stop #2, a taberna that appeared to probably crazy in season but was just us two and the kid running the joint. We purchase the only food he had left, olives and jamon flavored crisps, and grabbed a seat outside.


glass of wine outside a tavern
Cheers!

To Marmiz

A Camino sign right outside of the tavern show us some landmarks to expect along the way.


Camino sign
Camino sign

We head into the woods again and keep an eye out for these landmarks. Only a few hours to the next town, Marmiz. Right before we enter, the arc bridge!



I took a break and watched a man bike up the steepest hill I've seen while cheering him on awkwardly. Neas heads the local Cemetery like she does. Marmiz is empty today.



To Guernica

This was our last stop on the Camino proper so we want to do it right and look brave doing it. Up hill we go!


A Spanish town in the valley with a church
Goodbye little town

Shortly after, we hit woods with the most mud I've ever seen! The rain from the previous day turned this path into a pool. After a few laps, we see the town and stamp for joy (or mud)!



For the next 20 minutes we scrape our shoes with sticks until we look civilized and begin our decent. The outskirts of Guernica have fun trails that lead through fields and suburbs. We did see a cat spying on us menacingly as we headed towards the end.



Destination - Guernica

Arrival - 4:30 pm

The famous "Guernica" mural

Victory! Part one of our journey is done. We hobble around town to find our finish point, Mural del "Guernica" de Picasso. The quotes are because it's not the original, but still holds meaning.


We feel bad. We feel good. We definitely overdid it but we did it! It is the night before New Year's Eve so we wont have much time in Guernica. We will have to return another day.


selfie of a brave couple
Victory "dead tired" Selfie!

Sip and Bites


wine, ham and cheese at a table

We stop at Restaurante Boliña El Viejo for the usual pinchos and drinks. Vino for me and beer for Neas.


The bartender was very nice and let me chat with him in broken Spanish. He asked about NYC and the Camino.


We take an hour train ride to our new town and hotel in Bermeo.


 

Hotel - Torrontero in Bermeo

A sunset with the sky on fire over a large harbor of boats

Details

  • Amazing view!

  • Food - Plenty to eat in town (just not around New Year's only drinking).

  • We cooked, did laundry and went out.

  • We got lost in a sunrise.

Link:



 

Maps


All Trails (Us)



AllTrails (Alt)


This map starts at Markina-Xemein (better option), we started at Ziortza-Bolibar.



Google Maps


Not accurate at all!! Better than nothing




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