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Writer's pictureZak Goldstein

Camino Del Norte (Part 2): Orio to Deba

Updated: Dec 19, 2023

The most beautiful day: hills, sun, wine, pinchos, coastal paths, wine, tiny towns, Txakoli wine, grandpas herding sheep, the biggest plate of jamón ibérico and incase I forgot to mention, wine!


We pass through the towns of Zarautz, Getaria, Zumaia and Itziar on the trail. The only issue was a slight miscalculation of timing ...well maybe a large one.


A farm ontop of a large hill in them middle of the mountains in the sun

DINK Details

Plan a shorter section than we did.

Difficulty: Hard​

Start: Orio

End: Deba

Time¹: 11 hours

Distance: 18.6 mi

Elevations: 3,148 ft

Towns²: 4

Food Prep: Low

Add Ons:

Txakoli wine tour

Lunch in Getaria

1. How long we took to walk it with breaks and all

2. Towns are places with food and restroom


No, I'm not okay but thank you for asking

 

The Start - Orio

Breakfast at a cafe at 6am

We knew this was going to be a long, the price you pay for decadence. We left before sunrise to get a head start. It was pitch black out and of course we had to make time for breakfast.


We found a lovely bakery open at 7am to grab a small bite and a hit of caffeine.



The Walk

Leaving Orio - 7AM

So quiet and peaceful. Seeing the sea themed, light displays alone was pleasant goodbye to a quaint town. We had to head south and around to the river to get to our next town.



Zarautz

Only an hour away from Orio, we got to breeze through. With the sun coming up, we got to see sheep stuck in grave vines, a monument to camino walkers (with first aid boxes) and the surfers starting to come out on the coast.



Getaria (Lunch)

There is a beautiful paved, flat pedestrian walkway between these too towns, what a treat.



On the way, I ran into some guy I waved at in San Sebastian. I he recognized me (I got a unique face?) and I recognized him. This was followed but a point and yell "HEY, how's it going?! I remember you!" He was drive up Basque coast and running trails.


After our goodbyes, we hit Getaria. It was 11:00 and that means pincho time. We hit up the the tourism center for our stamps and found an empty tavern. Glass a vino and a pincho the size of my head filled with ham and cheese for 2 euro!



Txakoli Country (Wine)


Like the love child of a semi-dry cider and pinot grigio, this wine is poured from the the bartender's eye line into the glass. This leg of the walk is through the heart of those wineries so please make time for Txakoli.


Sadly, they were closed in off-season (December) otherwise we would be sipping on wine waterfalls overlooking the hills of Basque.


To Zumaia

Clear skies and sun to the next town, Zumaia. Another little break for copa and olives



Itziar - I dont remember

The rest of the walk was long and the elevation could not make up its mind. Neas is stronger than I am. (I know this). The next 4 hours proved this. The trail was of course beautiful, going through hills, forests, trails and another cute town. Too bad I was a singularity of angst and took no pictures at this point.


Destination - Deba

Arrival - 6:00 pm

Only take a few steps at a time, we barley remember the end of this day. Feet aching and wrecked. We hobble to the grocery to pick up water and other supplies then walk to our hotel. To add insult to injury, I had the wrong address of the hotel which happened to be an abandoned building with a hotel sign on it. Some harsh words were exchanged and then we found the correct hotel ... yay!



Dinner


Pictured: A pile of jamon and enough wine to knock out the beast where jamon comes from.


We got to little bodega with at kitchen that opened at 8:30 and had copa rioja while we waited.


Jamon heals all wounds.



 

Hotel - Pensión Zumardi


Details

  • 5 minute walk from trail and town

  • Breakfast - Simple

  • The hostess was leaving (around 6pm) when were arriving. We cried inside, seeing how close were to sleeping on the street after 11 hours of walking.



 

Maps

AllTrails

This map starts closer than we started by an hour. Accurate for the trail



Google Maps

Two points are not captured on Google Maps. You will find walking trails marked well




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