Woods with hiking trails, hills overlooking valleys with fog, abandoned buildings overgrown with vines and bulls. It was a very rural day with no towns to stop at. Since it was off season, we planned ahead with a picnic just incase.
Again, biting off more than we can chew, the day ended in darkness, and a grandma yelling. Know your limits and plan ahead!!
DINK Details
It is recommended to find a place in Markina-Xemein, we just couldn't find a hotel (on booking.com)
Difficulty: Hard Start: Deba End: Ziortza-Bolibar | Time¹: 11.5 hours Distance: 18.2 mi Elv. Gain: 3,462 ft |
Towns²: 1 Food Prep: High | Tips: Don't approach a bull, no eye contact. |
1. How long we took to walk it with breaks and all
2. Towns are places with food and restroom
It's Ferdinand the bull! Don't touch.
The Start - Deba
Just like yesterday, we knew we had another long day.
Breakfast was at our hotel to save time. A simple meal with the required coffee (and fresh orange juice for Neas).
Yesterday left us with some wounds which required time to re-applied first aid. To prepare for the rainy weather ahead, we packed our rain gear on top and headed out.
The Walk
Leaving Deba - 8:30AM
We passed through town, which only hours ago had families and friends sharing glasses of wine in the courtyards. I popped on the 360 camera to capture the journey from one town (Deba) to the outskirts of another (Mutriku).
To Olatz
Our first town away from the coast. We spent a final moment, saying goodbye to the coastal view and ventured into the wilderness.
The Camino met up with a few hiking trail that took us through the woods. The trail were short and only about an hour. They ended at a field of bulls. We found one that looked like Ferdinand.
Next, we arrived in Olatz and walked through town. There were a few buildings and sadly nothing was open. At a closed restaurant were a few tables so we setup our picnic and enjoyed the sun while we could.
The Trail
It's all wilderness for the next 6 hours. We packed up and got our rain gear ready!
Like clock work, the clouds rolled in.
Within moments we were in fog. We could only see a few yards ahead, so it was extra important to keep an eye on trail signs. We heard the sounds of horses from the emptiness of the fog and our fear, the ringing of bells from bull collars.
The rain came down hard and took out what gear we had. We have no cover so we did the only thing we could, kept walking.
We eventually come across shelter but it wasn't the type of place you take cover in.
After running away, the rain stopped ... convenient. There was the occasional house on the trail, but it was hard to tell if it us occupied. In the distance were some weird (man made?) rock formations in the mountains. Interesting to look at.
Soon we hit the main town, Markina-Xemein. Our feet hurt so bad from the decent, we decided to run. I can't explain why but we needed to do this. It just felt better!
Markina-Xemein
A very cute town full of shops, restaurants and tiny streets. We followed the Camino through a river walk and past a museum.
I really wish we could have found a place to stay here but we were losing light and fast. Despite the pain of walking and the need to sit, our hotel was an hour away. We pick up supplies (a.k.a more ham and wine) incase our hotel doesn't have anything in town.
To Ziortza-Bolibar (The Mistake)
In hindsight, we should have looked harder for a hotel here but we were cocky. Because the land was finally flat, how hard could a little walk be at night. The town was large and well lit so it started off well.
We crossed a river and headed into an industrial area with more lights but for some reason are taken behind this building....
After this, we are dropped into a field of pitch black. We had to use our phones for light (forgot head lamps). We eventually hit a more industrial area with a paved path and lights, "yay" but it started raining again, "booo".
The Choice
After that, the path came to a complete end. It was now thick woods with a split. One path took us along the highway and the other deeper into the wilderness. We decided to take the path along the highway which it ended at a fence 10 minutes in. This was a lot of time for hiking at night.
We discussed going back, deeper into the woods but the sound of a bell followed by a "Moooooo" came from the darkness. It could have been a cow but we didn't want to confront a bull. At this point the lights gas station can be seen in the distance. We"agree" to call it quits and head there to phone a cab.
* Later we learned that none of those paths lead to the Camino. The actual trail was further down a the sideroad which was completely hidden to us in the dark. On top of that, the Camino trail had a gate which led through a field of cows, not something you would want to do at night.
The Call
We make it down the highway and walk into, what felt like, the busiest gas station in all of Basque. We buy some water and tissues then ask the attendant if he could help us call a cab. We communicated in broken Spanish because we don't know any Basque. After he calls, the attendant gave us a thumbs up and a fellow customer confirms it's fine. We breath a sigh of relief.
But... after 15 minutes of waiting, we get worried and ask about the cab. The attendant says, "no answer, busy".... What about a thumbs up means "no cab is coming"??! We realize now that we will have to walk along this busy highway in the dark! We have done scarier things and at least the highway had lights. We put our backpacks back on (which somehow weigh twice of what they did moments ago), we hug, and get ready for hell.
The Saint, The Son and The Grandma
As we take our first step, we here a beautiful mans voice "Necesitas ayuda .... do you need help?" OMG!! "Yes, thank you!!!"
A man in a white work van pulls up and asks where we are going? We show him Ziortza-Bolibar on the map and luckily it's on his way. Excitingly, he tells us to have a seat in the back of his van. With his teenage son in the driver's seat (panic) and his mother (or grandmother) in the back, we hop in.
During the short drive, I talk with the the gentleman who he shares stories of his family. His brother plays professionally, the sport of Bilbao, Jai-alai for a team the U.S. Meanwhile, on the other site of the van, I can hear the very clear difference between Spanish and Basque as Neas is getting some intense yelling from the Grandma. She switches between both languages, while shaking her head. The only words we catch are "loco" and "noche".
After about 5 minutes, we arrive at our hotel. The man walks us to our hotel (class act) and shakes our hands. As he left we cried from happiness, he was so nice and saved us. We unlocked the door to our hotel and stare into the void as we let the last hour's adventure sink in.
Destination - Ziortza-Bolibar
Arrival - 8:00 pm
Using the glow from the lobby vending machine, we fill out the check-in forms and take them into our room while we unpack. Next, it's straight to the showers and pajamas. Due to the shock, we didn't get a chance to explore the town but the other hotel guests were in and out. It appeared there is a bit to do in Ziortza-Bolibar, even in off season.
Dinner
Being the creatures of habit we are, dinner means wine and jamon (with a cheese and apple upgrade). These were groceries we picked up from the previous town and luckily we ask a lady at on of the shops to uncork our wine for us. Plan ahead!
We enjoyed our little dinner while holding each other and reflecting on our decision. What a day!
Hotel - Albergue Usandi
Details
Self Check-in, great for late arrives
Food - Vending machines with many options and microwave dinners. Stoves for cooking food you bring.
Our room was bottom floor with a large shower and very hot water (happy).
Maps
AllTrails
This ends at Markina-Xemein, we went further. The next article has the trail to Ziortza-Bolibar.
Google Maps
Not accurate at all!! Better than nothing
Comments