The walk to the trailhead in the Suðureyri fjord alone was worth the hike. Even the slightest amount of sunlight on the fjord makes you you stop and look. Sheep grazing on the shores and a clear path down to Bolungarvik, almost makes up for the heart attack I gave myself going up.
DINK Details
This is an Icelandic hike so there is no path.
Difficulty: Hard Month: Sept | Time¹: 5 hours 15 min Distance: 8.62 mi Elv. Gain: 2,356 ft |
Obstacles: - I could not find a good path up² | Prep: - Bus schedules (or add 2nd hike for loop) - There is a cave, bring lights and gear if you want. |
1. How long we took to walk it with breaks and all
2. It looks like starting left of the river is best
This is one of those moments you learn something about yourself, isn't it.
Getting To Trailhead
This was a great bus day. It took a few days of research to learn how the buses worked and proper scheduling since they don't run on weekends.
The Bus
For this hike, I took the Suðureyri bus that picked up south of Hótel Ísafjörður, Torg. The Bus was 5 min late (don't get worried, it will be there).
If you taking this hike, let the driver know you want to get off at "the farmhouse before Suðureyri". If you are lucky two border collies will great you.
Bus Schedule (as of 2023): https://www.svi.is/aaetlun.html
The Trailhead
Let's say it starts at the farm. Take the first road north and follow it left. Enjoy this walk, it's bliss. People will spend thousands of dollars for tours and experiences, but a $5 bus can get you Iceland.
* With proper equipment for both of course!
Look for the house on your left and waterfall on the right, this is spot where we go off trail.
The Hike
Start Time: 12:30pm (1:15pm from here)
Now to be honest, I have no idea the best way to go. I went to the right of the waterfall and that was a rude awakening. I recommend going left of the waterfall a bit, it has to be better by default. Hopefully reviewing the obstacles below, helps the way up.
Besides the terrifying path up, the view is spectacular. There is even angle to see Suðureyri in the distance. For a moment, when the sun broke through the clouds, I felt a calmness, for a moment.
The Rocky Valley
Easier to navigate now, the path is a dogleg right and you keep center right. There is some fun giant rocks to hop over with a straight route that takes you up to the low point in the saddle to cross. Not steep at all, very easy to get up the Gilsbrekkuheidi mountain.
The Peak
This is next to the peak Gönguskarð. Great view with a clear shot down. Very cold at this point in late September, gloves were a lifesaver.
Heading a little to the right and keeping right of the river when you find it will guide you, mostly, the rest of the way.
If you look all the way to the right, you'll see the path that leads to the Hnifsdalur trail from the start of my trip. I have no idea what that building is but one day I'll find out.
Eventually you will hit bend in the river into a waterfall. Head a little further right to stay on the right side of this river and avoid a crossing later.
The Valley of Red
No instructions, just enjoy.
The Cave
Soon comes a big waterfall which means a little steep descending. The ground has traction here so just use those strong legs.
Keep an eye out on your lower left cause the path to the cave will appear. If you are interested, head straight down to the path and hang a left. About a 3 minute walk.
The area is beautiful, with more waterfalls and land formations. Once you head up the little hill in the path, cave time.
This is a tiny entrance. I was told (by locals) it opens up when you get in but that's a hard pass for this boi. This is a solo trip which means Neas can not make me go in there. If you decide to go in, bring equipment!
Crossroads
With a path to follow, we can take it to the farm road that going into the paved road. Eventually you will see the farm and the local road that takes you to the end of the trail (Bolungarvik). The road also leads up to the weird building above and the Hnifsdalur trail so maybe next time.
Obstacles
The Path Up
6 years ago by Thorsmork (southern Iceland), I was told real Icelandic hikes were terrifyingly beautiful. This has never been more true.
There appeared to be a path up on the right and I went with it. Looking for gaps in bushes, I surveyed the slope, finding the next direction up 10 minutes at a time. Moments later, the whole side of the slope was only bushes.
Branches would untie my shoes and pull my jacket. As the slope increase, I relied on the bushes to keep me from slipping. Soon, I sadly got my wish, no more bushes. Now it's strength and focus to make it up loose dirt and rocks.
Of course, another wish comes true, soft, wet mossy ground from another river where my boots stick into the ground. I had good boots but my feet were getting stuck.
Finally after 2 hours, I made it to flat land. I collapse from anxiety and physical drain. I did it! The remaining way up was a lot easier and that's helps when you are in a daze
Wrap Up
End Time: 5:45pm
The dirt road takes us to Bolungarvik. Its been two weeks since I lived here, so I was filled with joy to be back. A little colder now but with snow on mountains!
Eventually I pass the golf course (which I don't think has anyone running it in September) and turn left to go into town. The plan now is to hit up the outdoor hot tubs to wash away the anxiety and grab a drink to cleanse any fear that's left.
360 Tour
A great view on the way up but damn, the thing died right before the peak
In the Area
Verbudin Bar
The first bar in town after many years. Just built in 2023 and it was packed every night I was there.
Details
Amazing Staff
Fun selection of liquor and canned cocktails (Ves ginger!)
Only open a few nights a week (Thurs - Sat)
Always a game on TV
Link:
Maps
AllTrails
Local Map
Notes: The green is the main path, orange is optional return.
Mapcarta
Very detailed Icelandic topography map: https://mapcarta.com/W276776981